Claire Murphy visited the world's happiest country – Norway – to see beautiful Bergen and awesome Oslo, then took a train on one of the steepest tracks in the world
Epic views in Norway
Before the internet, there were actual trolls. OK, maybe not actual ones, but they’re very real to Scandis, whose folklore is full of ugly, mischievous creatures who live on mountains, steal babies and generally cause trouble.
You’re encouraged to keep an eye out for trolls on one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe, if not the world, the Flåm (pronounced “Flom”) Railway.
This holiday takes you to the roof of Norway – now officially the world’s happiest country – through stunning mountain panoramas and past spectacular cascading waterfalls.
I’m happy to report I didn’t see a single real troll – even though the trip is like something from a fairy tale, with the train ride sandwiched between two minibreaks in a pair of captivating Norwegian cities, Bergen and its capital, Oslo.
Trolls on Fløyen mountain
After a two-hour flight from the UK, I reached Bergen, on the southwest coast, nestled beneath seven hills and surrounded by fjords. The Clarion Hotel Admiral couldn’t be in a better location on the harbour’s edge, offering serene views of Bryggen opposite. This is the 14th- century quarter, with brightly-coloured, wonky timber houses, which is now a UNESCO world heritage site.
On the Fjords Cruise & Historic Cities of Norway holiday with Great Rail Journeys, all accommodation, travel and sightseeing is included. So during your free time you may walk around Bryggen, buy Christmas souvenirs all year round, stop for a coffee and a cinnamon bun, and visit the art gallery that houses one of Edvard Munch’s versions of The Scream.
Picturesque Bergen
But you’re probably itching for your first train ride and some magnificent scenery, so head up the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Fløyen mountain (1,055ft above sea level) where there are superb views over the city, as well as a cafe, a children’s playground overseen by a troll (statue) and, on the afternoon I went, some sunbathing goats.
The next day is the real deal – the historic Flåm Railway, celebrating 75 years of carrying passengers on one of the steepest lines in the world on normal tracks, where most of the journey is a 1 in 18 gradient.
I left Bergen on an ordinary commuter train, and the higher I climbed through Dale and Voss, the more giddy with anticipation I became, before reaching the isolated mountain station of Myrdal, 2,861ft above sea level.
There I climbed aboard the sleek Flåm train, full of vintage charm.
'The Scream' by the artist Edvard Munch
It’s only a 12-mile journey, which takes less than an hour, but there are plenty of twists and turns, and it’s not just the rarefied air that makes you gasp for breath.
Oh, the views. Clattering slowly on wooden tracks through 20 tunnels, there is darkness, then a burst of light as it appears we were suspended in mid air looking down over tree-covered hills, dark blue water and sparkling waterfalls.
Maybe you’ll be faster than I was with your camera to capture everything. In the end I settled for standing up by a large window, oohing and aahing at the awesomeness of nature and human ingenuity.
There’s a chance to jump off at a waterfall for a photo opportunity and to marvel at how far up you've come.
Claire hops off the train to marvel at one of the many waterfalls
Back at sea level, I alighted at the tiny village of Flåm at the edge of the Sognefjord. It has a quirky train museum, a few shops and your hotel for two nights.
The award-winning Fretheim, built in the 19th century for British huntin’ and fishin’ tourism, is surrounded by steep-sided cliffs, and its large period rooms provide a view of the fjord as well as all the modern comforts you could want. The food in the restaurant is tempting, but it’s hard to stay indoors when there is a magnificent waterway just waiting to be explored.
An inclusive cruise down the Aurlandsfjord – a branch of the Sognefjord – is a serene experience, watching cliffs, green forests, lush pasture and, of course, the beautiful water drifting by before a coach delivers you back to the hotel again.
The final journey is a day’s train ride through more knockout scenery, terminating in Oslo, Norway’s busy, ever-changing capital, where there appear to be more construction cranes than tall buildings on the skyline.
The Thon Hotel Opera is steps from the station, the main shopping streets and, of course, the fjord. Its namesake, the modern Opera House, is just across the road, and is a great place to visit if you’re already missing the sensation of being up high.
Oslo in Norway
Its marble roof was built to be walked on, rewarding visitors with a panorama of the city.
Before I did some more pedestrian sightseeing, this was a final journey I couldn’t resist – and perfect for a little (s)troll…
Great Rail Journeys has a 7-day Fjords Cruise & Historic Cities of Norway trip from £1,495pp, including a tour of Bergen, a journey on the Flåm Railway, a cruise along the Aurlandsfjord, flights from Gatwick, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Glasgow or Manchester, all rail and coach transport and 4* hotel accommodation. Departs May-Sept 2017 and May-Sept 2018. Book by Jun 2 to save £100pp on 2018 trips. GRJ can tailor holidays for individual tours. greatrail.com grj-independent 01904 527181.
Tourist info: visitnorway.com visitbergen.com visitflam.com visitoslo.com
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